Seafood fans net catch of day at John Henry’s
By Sally Friedman
phillyBurbs.com
Friday, May 31, 2002

John Henry’s Restaurant Address: Corner of Washington and Mifflin streets, Trenton Information: (609) 396-3083 Hours: Closed Mondays. Open Tuesday-Friday, lunch 11:30 a.m.- 2 p.m.; dinner, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m.; Sunday, 3-9 p.m. Price range: Average dinner entrees, $14.95 to $23.95 Insiders know: One of Chambersburg’s landmark restaurants where seafood is king.

Friends had raved. Neighbors had rhapsodized.

So by the time we got to the Chambersburg section of Trenton to find John Henry’s Restaurant, we were primed for a singular experience. We didn't expect to see a fairly nondescript restaurant on a Trenton street corner that looked like a plain old neighborhood eatery.

The interior was pleasant enough, but again, not memorable. A bar and lounge then a series of rooms, defined the plain, sprawling space. Not until we surveyed a menu that seemed never to end, and not until we got our first taste of John Henry’s astoundingly good food did we begin to understand what all the fuss was about. And now we're true believers, too.

There actually is a John Henry, and he and his three sons have operated his namesake restaurant for almost 15 years.

They took over a former go-go bar and totally renovated it, said John Henry Sr., who also explained that an aunt and uncle had taught them the food business, with an emphasis on seafood. That focus has continued through the years, with seafood as king at this Chambersburg restaurant.

	Owners John F. Henry Sr. (left) and his son, John F. Henry Jr., toast some of the seafood offered at their restaurant in the Chambersburg section of Trenton. (phillyBurbs.com)

From the start, the decision was to go for quality, even if it costs a bit more. “We get our shrimp from Columbia and Brazil, and it's more expensive, but it's well worth it. We spend more to get a better product, and in the beginning, that caused a struggle for us,” said John Henry. “But now, it's what our customers expect and demand.”

We’d already heard about what may be the single most popular appetizer at John Henry’s, the restaurant’s portobello mushrooms marinated with roasted peppers and smoked mozzarella, which more than lived up to its billing.

My dining partner chose the jumbo crabmeat cocktail, and was rewarded with a delightful serving of the freshest crabmeat imaginable in a perfectly spiced cocktail sauce.

Our server, a congenial young woman who knew exactly how to be helpful without hovering, recited a list of specials that are part of the daily scene at John Henry’s, where at least 10 special dishes are prepared every day, along with the numerous menu offerings.

Our ultimate choices were the restaurant's fabled baked salmon in a horseradish crust that lent pizzazz to what can be a bland fish; and the macadamia pan-seared grouper, another special that has won John Henry’s acclaim not just from loyal diners, but from Zagat's Guide as well.

Even the side dishes here bear mention, with a house salad that's as fresh as today, and, on the evening of our visit, a serving of grilled new potatoes that we’d love the recipe for. Portions are surely ample without being huge, leaving some room for dessert, particularly for those wise enough to leave with doggie bags. So if the spirit is willing, don’t miss the homemade rice pudding or the gelato served with fresh berries. The tira misu is also a taste of heaven.

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