Personable service makes all the difference at this family-friendly, family-owned Chambersburg restaurant.
By Antoinette Buckley
packetonline.com
Wednesday, August 8, 2003

John Henry's Seafood Restaurant 2 Mifflin St. Trenton (609) 396-3083 Food: Very good Service: Excellent Prices: Moderate Cuisine: Seafood with Italian leanings Ambiance: Modest décor with a comfortable feeling Hours: Closed Mondays. Lunch: Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Tues.-Thurs. 4:30-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4:30-11 p.m., Sun. 3-9 p.m. Essentials: All major credit cards accepted except Discover; liquor license; valet parking; separate smoking and non-smoking dining rooms; wheelchair accessible; banquet facilities available; seafood market on premises; take out available; reservations highly recommended.

John Henry’s is a family owned, family friendly restaurant in Trenton's Chambersburg neighborhood that has been going strong for 15 years. John Henry Sr. and brothers John Henry Jr. and Gary Henry team up on a daily basis (along with lots of help from other family members) to make John Henry’s what it is: a comfortable place where the food is reliably good and the hospitality is always flowing.

The staff is exceptionally warm with a collective personality that sweeps you off your feet. The kitchen could have served peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and I think everyone at the table would have walked away happy.

Encountering a few directional glitches en route, I placed a call to the restaurant on my cell phone. Co-owner/host Gary Henry insisted that we remain on the phone while he navigated us through the intimate streets of Chambersburg.

Once seated, I noticed the intriguing escargot appetizer that was listed on the restaurant's Web site menu was not on the menu that I was handed. I inquired about its disappearance before ordering. The chefs in the kitchen sent word that they could make it for me anyway. After hearing the specials and looking over the menu more thoroughly, I decided there were plenty of other equally tempting choices, and I didn't need to have the escargot I had originally had my heart set on. But, here at John Henry's, the motto seems to be, “Ask and you shall receive.”

Voila! An escargot appetizer was presented to me before the appetizers we actually ordered arrived. I flagged our host as he passed by and apologized for the confusion I caused, explaining that I did not actually order the escargot. He said that it was OK and I should taste it anyway on the house. Dumbfounded and now fallen hook, line and sinker, my guests and I indulged in one of the most luscious escargot preparations I've ever had. Toasted Italian bread, addictive on its own, is filled with tender, perfectly cooked snail, and drizzled with a heavenly cream sauce flecked with the freshness of parsley.

John Henry’s menu is extensive and moderately priced. All entrées come with a basic but well-done bright green salad. It is wise to ask for the dressing on the side, since everything at John Henry’s is generous, right down to the amount of dressing. The restaurant's specialty is seafood, often Italian inspired. Preparations show workmanship, and portions are generally enormous.

Appetizers shine. Clams casino ($6.95) is traditionally prepared, taste driven by a crisp bit of bacon atop each little half shell. An exceptionally good bowl of mussels ($6.95), prepared in a standard white wine and garlic sauce, is made lively by the addition of tomato and basil.

The special appetizer of the evening ($12.95) shows inspiration by layering a bunch of desirables one on top of the other. Portabella mushroom, melted smoked mozzarella, a generous heap of lump crabmeat, and chunks of tomato are layered and topped with a buerre blanc sauce. The whole splendid concoction is piled on a diverse handful of greens dressed with the right amount of balsamic vinaigrette.

I find that Surf and Turf ($32.95) often falls short of the joy one imagines when bringing two high-end treats together on one plate. You expect the best of both worlds, but the lobster and the filet mignon are often treated with mediocrity and little if any imagination, producing a disjointed plate that is rarely worth its price tag. John Henry's surpasses expectations in many ways, but the Surf and Turf succumbs to its own destiny.

A heaping bowl of linguini topped with jumbo lump crabmeat is paired with a fra diavolo sauce ($18.95) that is spicy without being weighed down by heat. It's an addictive carbohydrate fix. The dish can also be ordered with marinara sauce or garlic and oil instead.

The grouper ($21.50) is an oversized, beautiful piece of thick fish. It is encrusted with a batter incorporating pureed almonds and macadamia nuts. The nutty exterior accents the sweetness of the meat within. Buerre blanc sauce adds richness and the finishing touches to a delightful entrée that unfortunately is too much to eat after cleaning up the appetizers. The plate comes with hefty roasted potatoes and a buttery side of mixed vegetables.

Desserts serve the purpose but don’t move much beyond that. Crème brulée ($5.50) is a fair version with custard that’s on the loose side. Chocolate mousse ($4.50) lacks creamy dreaminess, but its chocolate level is deep and rich. The wee ones we brought along received smiles, winks and conversation. Our server split shared dishes without hesitation and was sensitive to the needs of the children as well as the adults at the table.

At the end of the meal, we rolled happily away; our palates pleased and our moods giddy from all the hospitable embraces we received along the way. On the evening we visited the service was the favorite dish.

 

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